It seemed at first quite an odd step for Chef Toby Cannon to be making the switch from fine dining to opening his own fish ‘n’ chippery, but he’s brought the same elements of quality and freshness to reinvigorate one of the countries favourite meals.

It’s a cosy little space, for years known as The Fish Bar (whose original owner gave me one of my first breaks in the kitchen). Nice touches have been added since such as an improved area to dine in, warm wooden paneling, and a quirky octopus motif. There’s the obligatory bain marie for quick takeaways but for the most part everything is cooked to order.

The menu gives the first hint that this is not your average corner store. Alongside a good selection of fish (available battered, grilled, or panko crumbed), and burgers are such standards as fried chicken and spring rolls. But there’s a degree of extra care evident. Eleven different sauces are on offer and all made in house. In fact Toby makes most of the menu from scratch, even the potato cakes.

And the potato cakes are outstanding indeed. Available both as traditional and sweet potato they’re generous, crispy on the outside, and tender on the inside. Just the way they should be.

A huge piece of barramundi came in a light and crunchy batter, the couple of lemon wedges on the side all that was needed for this flavoursome fish. The price really does reflect the quality and size and was worth every cent.

Crispy fish burger was classic old school and satisfying. The sauces were excellent all round with the Korean chilli being the highlight, followed by a warm satay. It’s traditional fish and chips but executed really well. There’s also a lot for coeliacs to rejoice with much of the menu available gluten free.

You’ll find Kraken wedged between The Republic and Osaka Izakaya in North Hobart, 293 Elizabeth St. They’re open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner with late trade until 1am on Friday and Saturday.

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