Much has been written about dinner at Franklin since it opened two years ago. David Moyle and his team have converted an old Ford showroom into a contemporary bar and dining space that has won numerous awards and praise from critics. The food celebrates the local, the seasonal and the skills of the brigade. The hearth takes centre stage. It can be easy to forget that they are more than just dinner though, as I have many times when considering or recommending breakfast options in the CBD. Once reminded I found myself returning again and again.
It’s a different space in the morning. Tall glass frontage has natural morning light shining in with the elements changing the mood, rain streaming down as a waterfall on recent outings. It’s a warm and inviting inside with many options of dining areas from large communal tables to the more intimate. The features of the restaurant of native skins, woods and flowers set against polished concrete look different in the daylight but remain striking and enjoyable.
What hasn’t changed is the quality of food, drinks and service. Service is naturally a more casual affair and yet highly attentive and professional. The beverage list is extensive with everything from excellent coffee to artisan teas to kombucha. The food sublime.
Surprising is the lack of unusual ingredients and fancy new techniques. Instead it’s excellent produce cooked simply yet excellently. The poached eggs are delicately soft oozing with yolk, the accompanying trout from Woodbridge Smokehouse the best you’ll find anywhere. The omelette perfectly set and seasoned, delightfully cheesy and tasting like the country.
A fried potato, eggs and sausage dish would be a heavy, starchy mess in many establishments but this one is light and refined, great flavours and textures and every component working well. The beetroot relish a standout.
It’s not all eggs, although they do feature. There’s a range of freshly baked pastries from Pigeon Whole Bakers to choose from, spelt bircher muesli with stewed orange and rhubarb and that excellent trout paired with labna on rye amongst other options. All of it is very well priced.
It stands in my eyes as perhaps the best breakfast spot in the CBD and deserving of as much praise as it’s night time counterpart.
30 Argyle St, Hobart
Open Tuesday-Saturday from 8:30am
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